This old V198 Haines Hunter recently got a brand new trailer and outboard and it’s better than new.
If you are looking to replace your boat trailer or need one for your new boat, we offer tips and hints on what to look for when buying a new one.
 Your trailer boat comprises three major components. The boat, the engine and the trailer. Of all three, the one most neglected and will need to be replaced sometime is the trailer. Boat trailers used constantly in salt water and with little care and maintenance may have a shelf life of not much more than ten years. That’s not to say that if you look after your trailer, it will not last twice that, especially if you use your boat in fresh water.
Replacing a trailer is also about ensuring that the trailer you are replacing the old one with is suitable for your boat. There are many different brands available from local and imported manufacturers, so it pays to check what you are buying. A quality new New Zealand trailer for a 5.5m boat will set you back around $7000, and if you need to reshoe your 7m hardtop, you can expect to pay anything from $15000.Â
There are several options. Firstly if you are doing a total replacement from the tow ball coupling to the taillights, the trailer supplier will need your boat dimensions, and they can sort out a suitable trailer.
You may think all your running gear is okay, but the steel galvanised frame is past its used-by date.
Yes, it is much cheaper to bolt all your existing componentry onto a new frame, but be warned that old axle, suspension, coupling and rollers may not be as good as you think and also be due for replacement. If you are looking at a new frame, go all the way and replace the lot.
A trailer can significantly enhance the boating experience because it eliminates having to rent a dry stack berth and allows the owner to travel long distances to boat in new waters. A good trailer adds value to a boat, creating a complete package. Choosing the right trailer isn’t rocket science, but there are important criteria that factor into the decision.
Size Matters. Trailers are classified by length and weight. The length is easy to figure out. Use a tape measure or contact the boat manufacturer. The weight includes more than just the boat – remember to add in the engine, weight of fuel, water and gear. The gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) is the maximum weight the trailer is rated to carry. For safety, add 15% extra weight.
Tongue weight refers to how heavy the front of the trailer is. It should always be between 5% and 10 % of the total boat-and-trailer package. If it is lighter than that, the trailer could sway back and forth as it’s rolling down the road, which can be dangerous.
Single or Multiple Axles. Trailers with one axle are for smaller boats. Typically, a single-axle trailer can accommodate a boat up to 6m with a max weight of 2 tonnes. They cost less, require less maintenance and are easier to move around manually than tandem-axle models. Trailers with two or more axles are for larger boats. They track better on the road, are generally lower and prove safer when travelling. Brakes make it easier to keep a trailer under control, and many experts recommend that multi axle trailers have brakes on all axles.
Brakes are a requirement in New Zealand if your trailerable weight is over 2500kgs. Surge brakes, or override brakes, have proven reliable up to 2500 kgs.
Real Steel. Boat trailers come in two types of material, galvanised steel or aluminium. The galvanised trailer is the most common but heavier than aluminium. Aluminium is also more expensive, but with its weight advantage over galvanised steel, it is a popular option on larger trailer boats.
Bunks or Rollers. Trailers come with one of two support systems, rollers or bunks. The Kiwi favourite is certainly multi-rollers, while the US manufacturers favour bunks. A trailer with rollers is considered easier to load. Bunks are thought to provide better support for the hull but can be an issue launching, especially off a beach or a low-gradient boat ramp. Bunks are usually covered in carpet, and some have plastic tops to make it easier for the boat to slide onto and off. However, rollers are much easier to slide a boat on and off a trailer. In New Zealand, they are the most common option.
Get Hitched. Most trailers connect to the tow vehicle with a hitch that clamps to a ball on the bumper or frame-mounted receiver hitch. Most New Zealand trailer hitches require a 50mm or a 1 7/8″ ball.
LED lights are now the norm on trailers, and the old traditional incandescent lights are all but obsolete. For wiring, look for tinned copper and ensure all holes in the trailer frame have suitable rubber grommets or other chafe protection.
Worthwhile Accessories. A windup jockey wheel that bolts to the front of the drawbar make it easy to lift the trailer on and off the tow ball. A spare tire and mount can mean the difference between making it to the ramp or home. We highly recommend that all trailers have a spare tyre.
A walk board or plank down the trailer’s centre makes it easy to access the winching eye.
Guide poles attached to the sides of a trailer make it easier to put back on the trailer. This helps when you need help seeing the end of the trailer when backing down the ramp. They are also ideal when you have wind or tide issues when retrieving your boat.
An electric winch is a good option, especially on larger trailer boats, and you might even consider the Kiwi invented Balex auto boat loading system. Both make retrieval that much less stressful. Bearing savers such as the genuine Bearing Buddies (watch out for imitations) can extend the life of a trailer by keeping the wheel bearings bathed in a constant supply of grease. Also, ensure you have good secure tie downs because if you don’t, the boat can be classified as an unsecured load, which could have insurance ramifications if you have an accident.
